When visiting Iceland, most travelers stick to the famous waterfalls and national parks of the Golden Circle, a 190-mile route that begins and ends near Reykjavík. Few drive the entire Ring Road, the highway that circumnavigates the island, and even fewer make their way to the interior, known as the Highlands.
But that may change with the debut of Highland Base, a hotel at the edge of the Kerlingarfjöll mountain range. The property, which opened in July 2023, comes from the team behind the iconic Retreat at Blue Lagoon Iceland.
The Highlands are so remote that “we’re basically putting a destination in the middle of the island,” Magnús Orri Marínarson Schram, the hotel’s general manager, told Travel + Leisure.
The Kerlingarfjöll area, designated as a nature reserve in 2020, wasn’t explored until the 1930s. By the ’60s, it was a summer hub for mountaineering and skiing. (Snowfall was common in Icelandic summers until climate change and volcanic activity caused precipitation to decline.)
Today, access is still tricky — the area is roughly four hours by car from Reykjavík, and there are only two roads, which are both unpaved and require 4 x 4 vehicles. (In winter, guests must be driven by a guide.) Our journey took longer than usual when I visited in October 2023 due to fresh snowfall. But the destination was, as expected, well worth the trip.
Highland Base at Kerlingarfjöll
- The rooms are the epitome of cozy.
- Being in the region is genuinely remote and feels unlike any other part of Iceland — the closest town is an hour away.
- There’s a daily hot waffle bar.
As we made it closer to the hotel, it became abundantly clear how remote we really were: There was no sign of civilization in sight. Upon arrival, there was an endless stretch of snow-covered land with nothing on the horizon apart from the natural landscape and the new property. It’s hard to notice the structures from afar since they blend in seamlessly with the surroundings.
I entered through the main lobby, which serves as the bar and dining space. Cozy is the only adjective that truly sums up the interior’s aesthetic. And despite being in a remote locale, it’s clear when you enter the lobby that you’ll have a comfortable stay.
The Rooms
Highland Base comprises a 46-room hotel, six one-bedroom cabins, seven A-frame huts, and a campsite. Of the 46 rooms in the hotel, two are presidential suites, which have a queen bed, a pull-out couch that can sleep two more, and an outdoor jacuzzi. The deluxe rooms also have queen beds.
My room in the hotel had all the luxe amenities I could ask for but didn’t feel too out of place in the middle of nature, thanks to the earthy tones that matched the exterior landscape. The underground passageway connecting the hotel rooms to the main building was a nice touch for guests (read: me) who don’t want to face the outdoor elements before every meal. But my favorite feature was the massive window with an accompanying daybed that let me enjoy the surrounding views.
A quick walk from the hotel area is six standalone cabins that are a perfect fit for families. Two of the cabins are conjoined for larger groups and families.
All the rooms are stocked with Blue Lagoon amenities. (Blue Lagoon skincare is famous for using bioactive elements of geothermal seawater, silica, algae, and minerals.)
Food and Drink
With the closest town hours away, the only option for food is the on-site restaurant. Fortunately, the cuisine is on point. The restaurant serves Icelandic favorites, like cured goose with blueberries and thyme, and has a daily waffle bar.
“The menu was designed to offer guests hearty, protein-rich dishes to provide enough energy for all their adventures in the Highlands,” Ingi Þórarinn Friðriksson, the director of food and beverage, told T+L.
A morning breakfast buffet is loaded with bread and butter, eggs, assorted meats, and skyr (a creamy Icelandic yogurt) with toppings. Guests can order coffee, orange juice, and apple juice.
During my stay, I noticed a bottle of cod oil surrounded by shot glasses at breakfast and was informed of its health benefits. “As a Nordic country, there are several months out of the year where we have very limited sunshine, which has a direct effect on our Vitamin D levels,” Þórarinn Friðriksson said. “Since we were children, we have been taking cod liver oil in some form to combat the deficiency and have been offering it at all of our hotels during breakfast service to provide guests with a true Icelandic experience.”
The menu has mushroom soup with coconut cream, dry-aged hamburger, and grilled cauliflower for lunch. (As you can probably tell, vegans and vegetarians will have an option or two that fit their dietary needs.)
Every day from 4-5 p.m., a waffle bar in the lobby offers made-to-order waffles, and guests can top the freshly made treat with whipped cream and jam. Þórarinn Friðriksson told T+L that the original ski school on the site served waffles to guests, so this feature is a tribute to that. “We thought it was important to pay homage to the past,” he said.
The dinner menu has some of the same offerings as lunch — I was delighted to see the mushroom soup on both menus — along with some new options like Icelandic lamb soup with rutabaga and potatoes, pan-fried Arctic char, and a rack of lamb served with potatoes and cabbage. (Þórarinn Friðriksson told T+L his favorite dish is the Icelandic Meat Soup. “It’s a traditional dish with Icelandic lamb, and it’s the perfect way to warm up after a day of outdoor activities,” he said.)
The menu changes seasonally, said Þórarinn Friðriksson, and in the winter months, guests are greeted with Icelandic hot chocolate with licorice and jökla, an Icelandic cream liqueur.
Experiences and Amenities
Iceland is known for its lagoons — in fact, its iconic Blue Lagoon was recently named the most relaxing tourist attraction in the world — and Highland Base is well positioned for travelers going to Iceland to soak in its famed geothermal waters. (Kerlingarfjöll has the country’s third-largest geothermal area.)
The hotel has three lagoon pools, and the property sources water for its three pools from nearby hot springs. There’s also a sauna that overlooks the baths and the surrounding mountains.
In the summer, guests can e-bike and hike, while winter pursuits include skiing, snowmobiling, and viewing the northern lights. Adventures include mountaineering to Loðmundur Mountain or the Snækollur Hike, which takes you to the highest peak in the Kerlingarfjöll mountains.
The Location
Travelers can fly to and from Keflavík International Airport (KEF), the largest airport in the country. Icelandair, the flagship carrier of Iceland, has direct flights between many major U.S. airports and Reykjavik. The airline also launched a new seasonal flight from Detroit to Reykjavik. (Pro-tip: The airport is 24 minutes from The Retreat at Blue Lagoon Iceland and it’s a convenient and luxurious stay when entering or exiting from KEF.)
Since the hotel is near the island’s center, getting there requires a drive of roughly four hours from Reykjavík, depending on weather conditions. The area is underdeveloped, so the closest city is more than 60 miles away, and you feel fully immersed in nature. “The journey is not a weakness, it’s a strength,” Marínarson Schram told T+L. (Note: We agree.)
Accessibility and Sustainability
Highland Base at Kerlingarfjöll runs on geothermal energy. The building is made with cross-laminated timber (CLT) and larch. Several A-top buildings from the former ski lodge days have been repurposed into staff housing. The waters are sourced locally, as are the geothermal pool waters.
The roads to the property are safe but can be uncomfortable for those who feel nauseated in cars. And, of course, the weather can change the smoothness of the journey.
Once at the property, there are elevators for those with mobility issues. Additionally, there’s an underground route to go from between the various buildings above ground, so guests don’t have to go outside when the weather is not ideal.
Three suites on the first floor are wheelchair accessible.
How to Get the Most Value Out of Your Stay
Highland Base at Kerlingarfjöll’s nightly room rates, which include breakfast, start at $395. You can book your stay at highlandbase.is.
This post was originally published on 3rd party site mentioned in the title of this site